The question of authenticity

To answer, the only way is to look into yourself and be yourself.

Life with Bánhmì11 is truly like living with a young child, where things unfold with greater rapidity, emotions run wild with greater intensity and people come together with greater frequency. We often feel like we are diving underwater. All these wonderful things pass by in front of us like in a dream but we can’t speak, we can’t share, we can just make simple signs. Words have become identical bubbles with no meaning and things that were sayable on the surface we  walked before are no longer sayable in the space that we occupy now.

That’s why we needed to listen to the words of others. We asked anyone who will talk with us for opinions about the food and we have discussions at length about how to create the authentic bánh mì. Must bánh mì be accompanied by soy sauce or maggi sauce? Should the pickles be mild or sour? Do we use butter or mayo, and should the mayo be made with egg yolks or egg whites? Are we missing pork floss or sausage? Can xá xiú be white or must it be red? Do we slice or spread the pate?

The answers we received were infinite. Hanoians use melted butter but in Saigon bánh mì has home-made mayo and soy sauce is always present. Sydney bánh mì comes with cha lua and in New York they can resemble anything, from Philly cheesesteak to Southern barbeque.  The constant factor, however, is not in the fillings but in the bread. Bánh mì in Vietnamese means bread, not a sandwich of any particular filling. An airy and crusty demi-baguette in the shape of a rugby ball and hidden among layers of blanket to be eaten warm- that is the only meaning of bánh mì.  And as long as we work with The Spence to create a bread of this texture, we think we have stayed true to the meaning of bánh mì.

So at this point we decided we should avoid looking outside or else we will soon lose ourselves. The world has given us a lot of affirmation, from food bloggers, Time Out critics to our customers, our friends. Family and friends who know us before we had Bánhmì11 have supported us, guided us with their business acumen, shared with us recipes that can not be found in cookbooks but are passed on from people to people, generation to generation. And we are so grateful for your words, somehow they help us to be clearer in our vision, deeper in our faith in this venture and happier in life on less sleep.

That’s not to say all the words we received have been kind, sometimes they were mean, intentionally or perhaps inadvertently. Parents worry about us taking on too much, going into unknown territory, risking security and losing our place in life. Customers complain about not seeing enough meat or what they expect from home. Sometimes it’s not even what’s said but what’s unsaid, a look, a smirk, or a frown.

So in the pursuit of authenticity, what is more authentic than being yourself? In the quiet hours of the night, when your mind is empty and your body is tired, go into yourselves to ask if this is really worth it? Do we really love it? Is this a child that we created, a part of our flesh and bones, or is it actually a pet that can run stray? And from this self-seeking, the food that is created is then an expression of who we are. Yes Bánhmì11 is as authentically Vietnamese as we are, born and bred in that country that raised us and gave us its glorious food. And yes Bánhmì11 is as authentically London as we are, making a home in this city, trying to grow humbly and earnestly in this cosmopolitan mart.

Bánhmì11 is growing up, befriending those who value her and love her for who she is. Sometimes she cries when people put her down for things that she is still learning to become perfect at. But as for those who have nurtured her along the way, she adores you with all that childlike wonder and in her eyes, only you mean the world. For us, it means that we need not look outside for a stamp of approval on how authentic this food is, because the child has a soul of its own. It can stand on its own feet because it was created, not replicated. That’s why we may call Bánhmì11 “the art of Vietnamese baguette”.

Posted on: 25.08.2009